"Neurotic, psychedelic, completely hysterical". The LOEWE Spring Summer 2022 collection is an experimental statement that marks a point of departure and opens a new chapter. Provocation, sensuality, movement and amusement break up the LOEWE mould. In devising a vision rooted at the moment, creative director Jonathan Anderson looks at the mannerist, hysterical world of Renaissance painter Pontormo, exploring notions of draping, sculpting and colour by way of torsions, diversions and distortions. The new beginning becomes a renaissance of sorts.
The line is vertical. The body is twisted, turned, contorted. Long dresses protrude in unexpected places, metal plates are integrated into coats and dresses, drawing an altered body, augmenting the reality of dressing into another dimension. Capes like wings define erotic manga characters, while draped elements hang, fall, turn all over. Denim, too, is treated in sculptural ways, while sequins and flounces are a moment of shimmer and flutter. Long dresses emanate from torsos cast in resin. Reduction is the byword: silhouettes are divided into chapters, building up moments that add nuance to a vision of the now.
Dresses with 3D metal wire elements underneath. Trench coats. Draped tops, dresses and leggings. Giant trousers and blousons; twisted denim jackets and skirts. Sequin slip dresses with flounces. Sequin miniskirts and jumpers. Elongated sleeves and culottes. Revealing holes and slits.
Pumps and sandals have ready-made heels - soap bars, candles, eggs, a nail polish, a rose - to suggest fragility and spontaneity. The Flow runner comes in a compostable plastic version that reveals the feet. Soft teddy bear fabric boots fall loosely around the ankle. Bags include a draped Goya long clutch and the Flamenco in teddy bear fabric. The curvaceous LOEWE Luna bag comes in smooth leather and in an Anagram jacquard. The Hammock Nugget in Nappa's calf adds new proportions to an enduring LOEWE style. Colourful sterling silver bracelets decorate the wrist.
New archetypes are defined. A collection that asks to be seen flowing in movement, as experimentation unfolds on living bodies in a real space.
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